Worming difficult horses

Discussion in 'Horse Management' started by Sniggles, Oct 5, 2012.

  1. Sniggles

    Sniggles Active Member

    Hi Guys,

    Just after some suggestions on how to make "worming time" fuss free and simple.. :confused:

    After a half an hour struggle yesterday I only ended up getting half the dose into him as it was just too much.

    Is there another another way to worm other than the paste? I have never had any issues worming other horses. This horse just absolutely hates it! There has to be a simpler way!? :eek:
  2. Sallighted

    Sallighted Well-known Member

    Test manure first to see if you actually have a worm problem... my worst behaved horse on the property is actually resiliant to worms and has never had a test come back over 10 (which is very low:p) My kids all get tested and when the results come back I worm as required. I find there is no use using chemicals if they are not actually required';' Test is pretty cheap and will give you and indication on what needs to be done.

    If horse still needs doing maybe try a gel instead. Also key trick is timing, make sure horse hasn't seen you with the plunger, twitch if required then be quick about it! Another option is to pre prep them by using a molasas mixture in a plunger every day soon they will be wanting to just about swallow the whole thing down**) then one day you just swap it out with the actual wormer and get it down quick before they realise *#)
  3. celestialdancer

    celestialdancer Gold Member

    You can get worming bridles.

    My lot have learnt to take it without a halter.

    The most difficult mare I had, was on bute paste for a while for an abcess, and came to hate the syringe.

    I just swapped the side I did it on each time, she never figured it out! :p
  4. dpjg

    dpjg Active Member

    Applesauce in an old tube every day is meant to do the trick, then one day it is not applesauce, then it is back to applesauce. Try molasses mixed in if you have a weirdo like ours who doesn't care for applesauce!
  5. needanswers

    needanswers Well-known Member

    My big boy is difficult to worm (doesn't like anything in his mouth). I use an old stockman's method and use his weight to turn his head around to the side so I can worm him. Works every time...
  6. magic_impact

    magic_impact Well-known Member

    I dip the outside of the plunger in molasses, so it only tastes 'half bad' :) Makes me feel better, don't know that they particulrly care though. Ours all get done in the paddock, only one that needs a halter.

    Our retired horse, now out on spell, you had to do his first otherwise he'd watch you do the others and bugger off when you went to catch him for his turn! They are smarter then you think sometimes.
  7. EVP

    EVP Gold Member

    Granules in feed.....best to use a type of sweetfeed and only use a few cups full so you can see he got it all.
  8. wattle6180

    wattle6180 Gold Member

    I actually have two friends who bring their horses to me to worm, cos apparently it's the "horses" who are the problem :D One lady is so tense about the whole thing that of course her sensitive pony gets worried for her. He's also very tall and she's not :p A can-do attitude has it over and done very quickly.
    The other one has to test the boundaries on pressure all the bloody time #(*#) So if you open his mouth and just do it, he's fine. Put a halter on and any downwards pressure and you have not a chance in buckley's of getting near his mouth :eek: Little bugger he is :)
  9. Blackbat

    Blackbat Well-known Member

    Very very glad that I spent the time learning my groundskills and teaching yielding to pressure as well as developing patience and keeping my own life down. What was a nightmare in the old days, is now a non event.

    I've tried the old mollasses in the syringe thing- one horse pulled the barrel off the plunger and almost swallowed it.

    And it works best to show the horse what I'm about to do, not hide it, whether wound cleaning or injecting or worming. They seem less suspicious and relax.

    I don't try to hold their tongue anymore, the way I was taught, just open the corner of the lip and slide the syringe up via the gap. If they lift their head up I deal with that before continuing with worming.
  10. Floggadog

    Floggadog Guest

    I've taken to spending lots of time rubbing the inside of my girls lips and the roof of their mouth.I do the same with the syringe. Spend a bit of time placing it in their mouths without delivering the wormer.
    My worst one used to press her lips together so hard she had wrinkles like an old Granny.
    Now she tries it on for a few minutes only.
    Gently, slowly & keep smiling seems to work for me :)
  11. NLEC

    NLEC Well-known Member

    With horses that tend to throw their head up as soon a the tube comes towards them, it is best to go in via the blind spot.

    You also need a wormer that is easy to depress. Ones that are getting close to use before date, or have been in the fridge are very tricky to use. Leave them out of the fridge, or put them in a warmer place (not really warm or hot) in the house for a day before hand....

    Try and also use a variety of rotated brands that ARE easier, and softer to depress out. This will help you ALOT. Many women don't have the hand span to be able to reach to the end of the syringe, then be strong enough to depress it........... Listen up manufacturers!!!

    Imagine a line that runs in the face where the cheek strap of a bridle would sit.

    Run the syringe tip down slowly done this line, with your thumb already on the plunger. If the the horse throws their head, just avoid eye contact and hold the syringe against the face of the horse, whilst asking for a pressure when they throw, and exaggerated release when they drop or give.

    This also prevents you from getting head butted.

    When you are one inch away from the lips of the horse, you need to speed up and in one fluid motion, quickly poke the tip in, angle the wormer up over the horses tongue and and depress the plunger very quickly as you are at the same time lifting the horses head up under the chin with pressure from your lead hand. Hold the horses head up, or encourage them to keep it up for at least 7 seconds, or until you get at least 3 'mouthing motions'.

    I used to use the tongue method, but I found that that even though the horse couldn't really do much about it, it did encourage other mouthing problems, they never learnt anything from it other than rather quick intense discomfort, it can put the handler at more risk, and they tended to get more stressed about the situation rather than calm and quietly confused as to how the hell you managed to get it down so quick as in the concept I use now ;) :p

    If that doesn't make sense, let me know and I will do up a quick video :)
  12. Pipsqueak

    Pipsqueak Active Member

    Jurox have bought out promectin plus in really cute little mini tubes, haven't tried them yet but will add them into my rotation. They have also bought out pony and mini wormer in the same short tubes so will be a lot easier to use and less waste. When i did have a mini I was always worried she would accidently end up getting the whole tube.
    Promectin Plus MINI Allwormer Paste for Horses, Foals and Ponies
  13. weezal

    weezal New Member

    My horse is really bad. Throws his head up, runs backards, rears etc. He is funny about his mouth too. I use Eraquell pellets. It doesn't treat tapeworms though so every 2nd or 3rd worming I use a paste and worming bit. I also put a bit off mollasses on the worming bit and a couple of times in between wormings paste him with mollasses using it. So much less stressful for myself & my horse & I don't end up pulling all the muscles in my arms.
  14. JellyBelly

    JellyBelly Active Member

    use worming pellets! Our horses eat them straight out of an ice cream container stress free and all done in 30secs.
    We could just use a tube with our horses no probs but we've always used pellets because they are just so easy!
  15. Sugar's Mum

    Sugar's Mum Gold Member

    I dont have hard to worm horses. However when my arm was broken it was tricky trying to give bute to Man. So I got the tube touched it to his nose hten pulled it away before he could react. Touched and pulled away touched and pulled away etc etc.
    Then it put it in his gob and gave it to him.

    Worked well.
  16. NLEC

    NLEC Well-known Member

    Be careful with worming pellets...... It could just be my supplier but i struggle to do a proper rotation using just pellets.
  17. When we wean the foals we play with a "pretend" wormer, a syringe filled up with water sweetened with honey or molasses:p We do give it to them couple of times before hitting them with the real thing and straight after sweeten them up again. It works.:)
  18. Nicki

    Nicki Well-known Member

    It's things like this that really show what individuals horses are. I've handled both of mine the exact same since they were babies, and they were bred by my friend who worms the same way I do. Zara, who had been known to be a drama queen at other times doesn't move a muscle or bat an eyelash during worming, if anything she lowers her head. Dylan behaves like you're trying to murder him.

    I have to worm him first, and sneak up on him because if he sees it coming or Zara being wormed he will run to the far end of the paddock and not be caught. Naughty pony! he used to pull back and try to get away from it but I solid tied him with an anti-pullback collar to worm him a few times and now he doesn't go backwards, just pulls faces and raises his head. The trick with him is to be very quick about it, and stand him with his bum to a fence or wall so if he does try to go back it won't work. I know no matter how high his head goes he would never rear but would be careful doing that with an unknown horse. Before I go near his paddock I take the cap off the syringe and put it in the back pocket of my jeans so it's ready to use but he can't see it, then when I've positioned him I rub his offside cheek to distract him and quick as a flash pop the syringe in the nearside corner of his mouth and squirt. To be followed by a look of offended betrayal by him. They get lots of carrots afterwards to get rid of the yucky taste :)

    I've also gone onto the 'low-volume' wormers since they are much easier to use with a smaller dosage and smaller syringe. If Dylan was a total ratbag I'd probably use granules or pellets in his feed, but he's manageable enough.
  19. Erika Roberts

    Erika Roberts Active Member

    My boy is shocking to worm with a syringe! He rears and all sorts so I just feed him the worming pellets in his feed! He has no idea they are in there! He'll eat them if you just give them to him in your hand too! Weirdo!
  20. Sniggles

    Sniggles Active Member

    Thanks everybody, I have tried to trick him and get it over with quickly but cant seem to squeeze it all at once without him realising haha, so only half got done, then after that NO WAY am i getting that thing in his mouth *#)

    He is well mannered on the ground, as soon as I put any pressure on his poll he drops his head straight away and keeps it there, he then half falls asleep and he will let me run my hand over his face with the wormer in it, but as soon as it goes to be in his mouth his head flings up and its war, then a little bit of pressure and head is back down again falling asleep. I guess patience and persistance will pay off, I just get frustrated after half an hour of it!

    I will try sweetening him up with molasses syringes in the future and see how that goes, never had a horse that hates it so much, every other horse ive had you could worm in the paddock without a halter!

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