Discussion in 'Horse and Rider Safety' started by Noah, Oct 8, 2011.
I had never thought about it before, what a good point!
A good idea in principle, however you could never have hydraulic brakes AND electric brakes connected to your float and operating together, because the way the brake drums are designed. They are designed for one or the other. You cant run a hydraulic line and the magnets (electric) in one brake drum.
Trevor from Imperial fitted mine when i picked up my new float $395. He is a mechanic and will fit for anyone, not just people buying new floats. Took about 2 hours and he thoroughly ran through the setup of the brakes with me and we took it for a test drive. Very happy
I have the electric and the break away system on my float but without the connection fitted to the car I have nothing, I can't remember who fitted ours but it works with the float and the caravan so it serves a few purposes.
Electric brakes safety!
I have been told by an experienced horse person (who is also a pro truck driver) that electric brakes can often fail causing an axle to lock up, resulting in a bad float and car accident! *#)
Hydraulic brakes were the prefered option in his opinion for floats.*
In all honesty i appreciate the concern and will take in what you are all saying but it some peoples cases it was how they were saying it and what words they chose to use! Dont forget by reading things it can be interoperated differently to what it was intended as.
My hubby (a HD mechanic with lots of towing experience!) would disagree with you here
He reckons electric brakes are far better BUT they have to be in good working order with a good quality controller **)
I would think if an axle locked up there was probably a problem there to begin with ';'
will ask hubby tonight - lol! Might have to get him his own log in!
Please, please Wizard - invest in a decent controller for your car You're not the only one on the road!
MR Fat Fezzie showed us your controller FF and he also taught one person how to use hers, as she only just got it and didnt know how to use the over ride.
He wasnt happy with her brand of controller as I think he said they have the tendency to be grabby.
There are two types of controllers, cant remember the names of them, but one is more expensive than the other but it is far better.
FF, can you please get MR FF to remind us.
Would be really interested to know what brands of controllers they are QSS.
The one I bought a year or so ago is quite 'grabby' and is about to get the old heave ho ! This one has inertia sensor, digital readout out and adjustment etc.
Going back to the old manual one where you just turn the dial up or down. *#)
I have read elsewhere, that sometimes the actual brake controller on the float/trailer can conflict with the controller in the car and cause intermittent issues, such as grabbing or errors about earthing out etc.
Maybe you need to get MR FF to teach how to use the new one ZaZa. The different types work on how they engage. I cant remember the different names for the types, but one works on coming on immediately hard when your car brakes hit a certain level, which sounds like your old manual one and the other type works on different level of applying the brake as you brake, i.e. you brake hard, it brakes hard, you brake soft it brakes soft. I think the name for the type may have been proportional type??
Cant remember the brand name of the one that he said was grabby, but it was like your old manual dial switch one.
I think the big thing we have to remember about all floating is that every part of your set up needs to be checked regularly to make sure its in working order, not just your brakes, but tyres, ect ect.
QSS my controller has been set up exactly as the user manual says it should be and I also test it (with empty float) regularly to make sure the power level is accurate. It's not a constant problem , more intermittant but it's a real pain in the @sre when you're coming into a set of lights and even though I'm not braking hard in the car, the controller grabs and the float brakes come on way too strong. *#)
Taeliesyn have you had any problems with your controller ? Pretty sure mine is the same as yours.
Yeah I've had a few instances of the grabbing, but definitely not many. Only about 4 or 5 times total. It definitely sucks when it happens.
Tekshona(sp?) Prodigy P3 is mine. I might have to dig up that other site I read about the grabbing, it was only a random thing, but the guy put a small resistor in his setup and everything was perfect after that.
Yeah, mines' the P3 as well.
Any info you could dig up about the grabbing and how to stop it would be really appreciated. I can go for months without it doing it and then it might do it once on trip and then she's all good again :confused:
Im with Fat Fezzie, having towed many many miles with both, I definitely prefer electric over hydraulic.
I think the thing with electric, is when people first get it installed, and its not set up right, they put the brakes on and the whole lot locks up and gives them such a fright, and they blame the unit but in reality it just needs setting up correctly :confused:
We also have the Tekonsha something a rather. Ours isnt grabby. It works well - when set up correctly. You cant just set-and-forget. Towing empty and towing loaded is two different things, and must be altered for accordingly each time.
Also, notice the angle of the unit must be correct - or it will grab.
After our lesson on the weekend and different types of electric controllers explained by MR FF, Im definately leaning towards the more expensive proportional (think this is the type name) ones. They sound like they act alot more like normal car brakes than the other types of controllers.
My unit is mounted to sit level/flat/horizontal -whatever you want to call it- so that's not the problem.
Have just done some googling after reading Mr T's post and it seems it be a fairly common (albeit a very intermitent) complaint with the P3.
Now to get it sorted ...
Might try and contact Mr FF and see what he thinks.
Yes ZaZa, you probably have a newer unit than our old one.
Ours has the knobs on the side and has to sit at a certain angle. I cant remember what model it is, the sticker has long since fallen off
What I was trying to say was, with the older units, they have to sit at a certain angle. The newer ones dont.
So stay away from the P3? or does it work well generally (bearing in mind that the fix for it is permenant)