Building Pine Post and Rail Fence help.... please!

Discussion in 'Horse Management' started by Horsewest, Dec 14, 2008.

  1. Rambo

    Rambo New Member

    Hi all and in particular horsewest,

    first horsewest, RL4 equates to 4 inches in diameter each post and RL5 is 5 inches each post and so on.

    my dad is also a fencing contractor (30yrs) and has done all my horse fencing, none of which has ever fallen over, sagged or been pushed over.

    i would suggest RL6 2.4m posts for the strainers and box corners. if you dont do proper box corners the rest of the fence will fall to the way you strain it!

    we use RL5 2.1m posts for the uprights and RL4 3m rails for the top rails. the height of the post from the ground up is 1.2m, so each post is buried so as it finished at 1.2m high. (set with string lines).

    the strongest and best way to put the top rails on is to use 10mm steel rod, drill a hole through the top of each post and in the middle of the end of each rail, bang the steel rod through then bang the rail onto the end of it. to do this you need to put all the uprights in at 3m gaps before you do the rails. once you have the rail banged onto one end of the rod, you then line up the hole at the other end and bang the rod THROUGH the post to secure it.

    our fences have been up for 17 years and never moved or sagged. we dont have electric and the horses have never killed it. if you cut a section out of the top rail to put it over the top you will find it sags after 10 years or less because it is not pushed in tight.

    the only other tip i can add is to strain fencing wire from the bottom up. if you start from the top it pulls the posts in and your wire will sag. also strain in warm weather so the wire stretches and pulls up super tight and neat!!

    good luck! if you need any extra tips feel free to PM me. ill see if i can attach a photo to prove my point!

  2. Nicolatko

    Nicolatko New Member

    What great advise so far! What about if you put posts in with electric fencing etc and wanted to add rails with the rods later? Would that still work ok, or does it make the job a lot harder not doing it all at once?
  3. Horsewest

    Horsewest Well-known Member

    Thanks heaps rambo! That is a huge help. One more quick question, how would you put a 2nd rail, is it the same way as the top? And at what height do people usually put the 2nd rail?
  4. Happy Gambler

    Happy Gambler Well-known Member

    We have post and rail and put the 2nd rail in exactly the same way as the top. Sorry, can't remember what height, will have to measure when I get home.
    Have just had to concrete in a few of the posts as a certain young horse decided that with a large roomy paddock she must sleep curled up against the fence and they were getting pushed over! They are straight & upright now *#)
  5. Rambo

    Rambo New Member

    yep you put the second rail in like the top one and im pretty sure the rod is drilled through at 60 or 80cm from the ground up...

    we did a section of fence without rails first (cos we couldnt afford the whole lot at once) and as long as you make sure the GAP between the posts (inside to inside measure) is 3m then you can go along and add all the rails later. when you by 3m long raisl they are made to fit into a 3m gap so most of them are between 3.050 and 3.2m long (just cut off to fit).

    happy fencing everyone!


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