Building Pine Post and Rail Fence help.... please!

Discussion in 'Horse Management' started by Horsewest, Dec 14, 2008.

  1. Horsewest

    Horsewest Well-known Member

    Hi!

    We are soon to be refencing some areas on our property. We were thinking of using 2 rail pine post and rail (copper logs).

    Any tips on things such as post and rail length, height, depth into ground, diameter, best way to secure the post and rails etc would be appreciated.

    Also hoping to blacken the logs afterward, is there anything i can use that will discourage the horses eating the fence but won't hurt them if they do, preferably something I can spray on rather than something like painting on the usual sump oil?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. sil

    sil Gold Member

    Hey mate

    For our stallion paddocks, we went for pine post and top rail with electric three strand on the inside. We used R5 2.1 for the posts (sunk 600mm) and R5 2.4 for the rails. The top rail had a mortice cut to seat flat on top of the posts and wired on so if we need to replace one we just need to cut the wire and trim another rail and wire it back on. The fence finishes about 1.5m high.

    The electrics; all fixed on with timber post offsets and in the corners we used porcelain rounds. The top strand is just at the top of the post/runs about low to mid top rail - stops the horses leaning over the pole or chewing on it. The middle and bottom ones are set equal distances apart with the bottom one about 750mm from the ground.

    The gate is 3m wide to allow for a tractor. We hired a 1 man post hole digger for the grunt work and a couple of gents to do the post and rail part, I finished the electrics myself.

    Hope this helps!
     
  3. Eo

    Eo Active Member

    You can also get the post and rails already machined so all you have to do it put it up. there is a timber treater in perth that does it.. We have just bought a heap to do around our house its a little bit more expensive buts all you have to do it put it up no worries about cutting it wrong or things not lining up propperly
     
  4. wattle6180

    wattle6180 Gold Member

    We used 3m lengths. Have a 3m gate. Made the height 1.5m out of the ground as this was deemed a good leaning-on height for when we're watching them play :)
     
  5. Caroline

    Caroline Well-known Member

    Wooden post and rail looks smart, but you will end up having to replace half of it in a only few years time. #(

    Horses will chew and destroy the wood regardless of what you put on it! And creosote, sump oil etc are certainly not good for the compulsive chewer.:confused:

    Electric yards are cheaper, easy to construct, safer, look tidy, and far less maintenance.:D:))
     
  6. arylin

    arylin Well-known Member

    Go straight for creosote posts ours have been in for quite a few years now and not one pony has even looked at chewing them where as the few pine poles still around have definately been chomped on and will hopefully all be replaced by creosote by the end of 2009.
    We bring them over from SA as they are hard to source here in Perth.
     
  7. Taylorc

    Taylorc Guest

    Similar to Sil's, we've fenced with R5 2.5's, 600mm in ground. Top rail and three wire strands, with an electric off set at top. Also used wide gates for machinery access.
     
  8. Boo's Eclipse

    Boo's Eclipse Well-known Member

    I disagree! When the wire sags (& it will) it looks unsightly, I have found there is A LOT more maintenence with electric then there is with our permanent post & rail. It does look heaps better & our horses, especially the stallions are a lot less reluctant to take it on then the electric.

    We have a band of electric off set on the top rail to stop chewing & argueing.

    Our post & rails have been in for over 6 years & we have only had to replace maybe 3 posts (2 of which were hit by a run away tractor :p ) & possibly 4 or 5 rails in that time. Where as we are constantly maintaining the electric components of our fencing.
    As Sil said, Embed posts a min of 600mm in the ground (cemented) with 1.5m protruding.
     
  9. kiraSpark

    kiraSpark Gold Member

    OHs property is fenced with post and rail, he used sump oil and black paint mixed together to paint the wood and no horse chews on it.

    The black paint also keeps it nice and dark for longer.

    Keeps the ants out too.
     
  10. chick_with_a_chainsaw

    chick_with_a_chainsaw Gold Member

    after the wood posts are up maybe a strand of hot wire accross the top away from the fence so they cant reach the wood. my pony was in wood post yards and although she didnt eat the wood most other horses did.
     
  11. Caroline

    Caroline Well-known Member


    If you install a winder strainer on one end of each run of wire, you simply use a spanner to retension.**)

    We use the white Turbowire polybraid. Nice and visual, and it only costs us $300 to replace the Turbowire on 4 yards and the paddock every 5-6 years. :D:))
     
  12. Remaani

    Remaani Guest

    After deciding to stick with the current steel posts my yard is enclosed with & doing a top steel rail & then Sighter Wire underneath... i pulled the current (very fine, easily bent or snapped, NOT suitable for big horses!) rails off & amazing how the steel upright posts suddenly become very flimsy themselves.
    The type of fencing used was for big horses but its not strong enough, mini's/ponies maybe.
    Half the posts had 3/4 snapped (cemented in) so i just yanked them out, lol.

    Pine logs it is now! Only got 2 yards to do & it'll be all pine logs. Leccy on top.

    We have 2 big yards made up with just leccy but i dont like them, they'll be made into the mini paddocks & we are deciding how to fence it off for them.
     
  13. sil

    sil Gold Member

    I haven't concreted in any pine posts, they are all dug into the ground 'as is'. I have in the past had to replace pine posts on other properties and the addition of concrete I find turns a 30 minute job into a 3 hour one trying to get it out.
     
  14. Remaani

    Remaani Guest

    We will be cementing all poles in but luckily we have the back-hoe if needed to do any digging out!
     
  15. Caroline

    Caroline Well-known Member

    If you dont concrete all posts in to at least 600mm, horses just learn to lean on them and push them over. And then it becomes a bigger job!:))
     
  16. Lin

    Lin Well-known Member

    My posts aren't concreted in and they have been standing upright for 15 yrs now.

    I figure my fencing guy, who's been in the business for 50 yrs (yes literally), knows a thing or two about building fences. Never seen him use concrete ever. Maybe if the fence was in beach sand perhaps, but hills rock and Valley clay? Nup.
     
  17. Emalin

    Emalin New Member

    we have replaced our fencing with copper log posts (two rails ) the uprights were all knocked in , and are in the ground as much as they are out as we have high water table
    we have electric wire running across the top - not only to stop them eating fence but so there is no fighting and also a stand off on both sides of the middle rail - will try and take some pictures for you as we have the rails between the uprights also not sitting on top
    i have found although originally expensive to do , just over 12 months later still looks great, have had to do no maintenance and have had no injuries since (my horse got caught in strand wire numerous times fighting over the old fences)
     
  18. Taylorc

    Taylorc Guest

    Lin I agree - our posts are 600mm in heavy clay... they're not going anywhere in a hurry. As good as concrete ;)
     
  19. arylin

    arylin Well-known Member

    We've had both a heavy sand property and our current rock hard clay property and have never had to cement posts in and they are all standing upright.
    Our fences are made high enough though to discourage leaning over and the electrics also deter any one who might like to try.
     
  20. Horsewest

    Horsewest Well-known Member

    Hey!

    Thanks heaps for all the replys. Been very helpful.

    Quick question, what does R4 and R5 convert to? I know its the diameter, but not on sure the measurements.

    Thanks in advance.
     

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